29
Jul
Win Explorer hangs after inactivity Best answer on the web
Author: webmaster // Category: xn--g7qx97f.comIntel X86 Model 2 Stepping 3.2Mhz Processor
BIOS: Intel RL86510A 86A.0071.P13.0401221036. 1/22/04
Memory: 1 GB
Three HDs: C: 68GB; E:(boot)75GB; G: External firewire 250GB
Any ideas on fixing?
1. Check your screen saver if its working fine bad screen savers hangs computer.
2. Check Task schedulare for any task.
Because your problem is related to the inactivity and also dependant on time it would be wise to check that if any bad screen saver or task is secheduled.
I've set clock back to default (300/700).
I have a screen shot of the MBM dashboard but don't know how to attach to these messages, being the newby that I am. Here are the readouts: Case: 87 F
CPU: 86 F
Sensor 3: 32F (hardly seems right)
Core 0: 1.52V
Core 1: 1.48V
+3.3: 3.35V
+5.00: 5.10V
+12: 12:04V
-12.00: 0.00 V
-5.00: 0.0V
Fan 1, 2 & 3: 0 RMP (apparently not reading proper port)
CPU: 3193 MHz
CPU 0: 0%
CPU 1: 0%
Jimmyray
Thanks for your detailed opinion on the fans. My mistake, the SP500 Smartpower is the 2-fan model, as you pointed out. I will go with the TPII550.
As to posting your last as the answer, perhaps we should wait until I make this improvement to see if it is, in fact, the underpowered PSU that's causing the problem. You certainly deserve the reward if it is. Thanks again.
jimmyray
Thanks for your comment. I don't use screen savers...just put my monitors into sleep mode after inactivity. Also don't use Task scheduler. It's looking more and more like insufficient/irregular power, so, I'm going to get an Antec 500W PSU. Any advice about which of these would be better: Antec Smartpower SP500W or Antec Truepower TPII550? The Truepower has 2 fans and claims to be virtually silent, which appeals to me a lot, because I do a lot of video/audio editing and silence is golden. Cost is not an issue.
Jimmyray
Since you may be border line there with power, if you have a spare video card laying around that would require less power it may make sense to use it while performing ram tests.
If you do choose to swap out the PSU, I recommend going with an antec truepower PSU. These PSUs ensure that regardless of which rail you connect things to, that you get the full power from the PSU. In addition they are consistently rated high for quality by hardware review sites.
I am slowly coming to the realization that I have to open my case. I'm pretty hardware savvy, having replaced/installed many components in my time, but the hesitation I have is that my CPU is VERY difficult to get to, and takes about an hour and much sweat to unplug and remove from under my desk setup and an hour to replace. I do have, and use constantly, three HD's, A Zip Drive and floppy. 1 scanner, a Parallel Printer, a USB printer, USB Universal Card Reader, USB Router, Firewire camera, and two monitors. I suspect that's a pretty heavy load on the PSU.
Once I take the plunge to open the case, I'm thinking of getting an Arctic Cooling NV Silencer 4 to help cool the graphics card. With this, I can flash the graphics bios to upgrade the 5900 to a 5950 Ultra. Any opinions?
I didn't suspect over-clocking because I was having the trouble before upping the clock speed.
I was only trying that to squeeze a little better performance during video editing sessions, and higher quality video playback. I do quite a lot of that.
I'll let you know what's what after installing MBM.
Thanks again,
jimmyray
Overclocking a system which is known to be hanging is unwise.
Hanging such as you describe can occur because of many things,
but two of the most common are excessive heat and Power Supply
Unit (PSU) voltages which are out of range.
Both can be monitored handily with a free program called
Motherboard Monitor (MBM), available here:
http://mbm.livewiredev.com/
Check the motherboard (mobo) list at the link to the left to
see if yours is one that can use the software.
Heat can be reduced by:
- Stop overclocking
- Clean or replace CPU heatsink and fan
- Clean inside of PSU of dust-cows (opening it to remove
dust voids the warranty, but there's no other way to
clean it)
Voltages should be within 5% of specifications.
Voltages can be temporarily stabilized by:
- unplugging unused hardware (CD-ROM, floppy drive)
If your PSU is more that a couple of years old, and
the voltages are too low, replace the PSU.
If temperatures and voltages seem within limits,
consider the possibility of a failing hard drive.
Back everything up.
Let me know where this takes you...
sublime1-ga
PSU: Inlight 340W.
Yes, I did (and regularly) run Spybot Search & Destroy and Adaware before running Highjackthis. Although I did not submit the HJT log to an expert, I did use the automated HJT log analysis/removal tool, and after personally analyzing what was left, even with my limited experience, am pretty sure I got everything.
I'll try the Ram Test right now.
jimmyray
jimmyray
I'd go with the TruePower TPII-550, first, because I think
you can use the extra power and stability for your system,
especially if you're doing a lot of audio/video editing,
and second, because it's one of the best-reviewed PSUs
of all time. But I was a bit confused by your comment that
it has 2 fans. The Antec page for this PSU notes that it
has a single 120mm fan:
http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=22550
However, it also speaks of v2.0, so I'm thinking there
are two models: the original TP-550, with 2 fans, and
the newer TPII-550 v2.0, with a single fan. Here's the
original TruePower 550:
http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=20550
Both of these models, as well as the SmartPower 500, have
temperature-controlled fans, which increase in RPMs only
when the temperature inside the unit increases, so they
will all be relatively silent (I have a SmartPower 500,
and the CPU and case fans overwhelm the sound of the PSU
fan, anyway).
Money being no object, I'd pick the TP-II 550 with the
single fan. In addition to offering more stability with
the increased wattage, the single fan is a better design.
The 2-fan design has one pulling air from inside the PC,
and the other blowing air out the back.
I don't know if you've ever dusted the inside of your PC
(and I'd recommend it every 3-6 months, depending on your
environment), but it can get pretty dusty. The 2-fan
design channels all the dust out of your PC and into and
through the PSU (and opening the PSU to dust it will void
the warranty). So imagine the dust you find in your PC
multiplied by about 10 and crammed into the small space
of your PSU, and that would be what I confronted once when
I opened up a failing PSU with dual fans.
The single-fan design will still bring dust into the PSU,
but I don't think it will be quite as much.
Now that you've decided to replace the PSU, should I post
what I've provided as a formal answer, or were you planning
to test the system for stability with the new PSU prior to
having me do so?
sublime1-ga
Thanks for your response. Enlight it is (I got the brand name and wattage by calling my builder for his records, and misspelled it.) I had run the memory test prior to your post, and there were no errors.
Re: MBM, I did look up my motherboard and listed that in setup. I have now set up the MBM, linked to the sensors listed, and still don't get a Temp reading on Sensor 3. I am now getting fan rpms. Looks like insufficient power is the best bet to correct my original problem. I will attack that according to your suggestions by ordering a 500W Antec Truepower PSU, pull my case and install it. This will take a while, so I'll get back to you after it's done. Thanks again.
jimmyray.
You're definitely at the high end of a PSU load, especially
with all the USB devices drawing from your +5V supply, and
it seems all the more likely that your freezes are related.
When you've installed MBM, see if your +5V supply is less
than 4.75V. That can cause glitches in your hard drive's
functioning which would explain the freezes.
Installing the Arctic Silencer sounds like a good plan.
I'm looking forward to the readouts from MBM.
sublime1-ga
What wattage is your PSU, also who is the manufacturer? Unfortunately, even if you have a high wattage PSU, if it's from a cheap manufacturer the power will often be split across the different rails, so you can have too much load without actually exceeding the listed the spec.
Second have you run any ram tests? If you haven't I'd recommend you try memtest86 : http://www.memtest.org Start the tests and let them run for 24 - 48 hours. If errors are detected, you'll have the fun task of swapping out ram, trying individual chips in different slots and then running the test to see which are bad.
Finally, you seem pretty computer savy so I don't want to patronize you, but you said you ran hijackthis and cleaned off a bunch of stuff. Are you sure you got it all? When I clean machines I run spybot search and destroy and adaware. Only after that do I run hijackthis to see what might be left. Some spyware can be very difficult to remove, and can really mess with Windows causing all sorts of weird issues.
I'm still here...
In my brief absence, feldersoft-ga has told you precisely what
I would have with regards to the MBM readings being acceptable,
your PSU being of insufficient wattage for the hardware you've
listed, and Antec being the replacement of choice when buying
a new unit. I'd recommend at least 500W.
I would also suggest, even prior to testing your RAM, that you
set MBM up to log the values for your PC, particularly the +5V
supply. Additionally, the High/Low page will display changes in
values since you last booted up. Knowing this, you can engage
in some intensive operations such as a video game, and go back
to see if the +5V value (or any other) has dropped to an
unacceptable level during such activity. You can also set MBM
up to play a mobo speaker alarm when tolerances are exceeded.
The odd readings, e.g. for sensor 3 are due to the fact that
you must set up MBM to work with your particular mobo in order
to get usable readings. Did you follow that link on the MBM
page to look up your mobo? And did you find your mobo in the
list for automated setup when you installed MBM? If it was in
the list, the settings are done somewhat automatically, but if
not, it takes quite a bit of experimentation to set it all up
manually.
Let me know where this takes you...
sublime1-ga
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